Duck wrote:Old fart it doesn't work on mine even if I hold the original key right up hard against the tumbler & use the spare uncoded key, the engine just turns over but will not start
AnOldFart wrote:Duck wrote:Old fart it doesn't work on mine even if I hold the original key right up hard against the tumbler & use the spare uncoded key, the engine just turns over but will not start
Hi Duck, have you actually -sticky taped- the black plastic end off the broken original key, onto the end, of your spare 'ordinary' key...??
If that still fails, then try touching/ holding the broken key's remnant 'metal' shaft so that it is physically making metal to metal contact with the the metal shaft of your replacement key as you turn it to crank the donk.
And don't forget, just a little 2T in some jooce, when applied to the key, will help it - slide in and out ....smoother
josh_cod wrote:Thanks for all those great ideas. I am still abit shocked that the electric key is the only way to disable the immobiliser though. What happens when the battery in your key dies? Will you still be able to start the car or are you stuck?
If you ever 'break' the metal shaft of your 'smart-key' as opposed to actually completely physically losing it, but you still have the black plastiky handle bit with the battery inside it left behind, you can get by with just using an ordinary key blank that you have obviously been 'smart enough' to get cut to the right tumbler profile ie, key-shape, well before this 'mis-fortune' actually happens, and then you just need to stiky-tape the black plastiky handle bit onto it. This works because the small security chip that's uniquely encoded to your own particular vehicle's ECU lives inside the black plastiky bit and no, it does not need to rely upon the 'remote door lock' battery actually being 'a live one' for it to operate. It just needs to be in close proximity to the ignition switch assembly when you want to turn the 'funkey'.
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